Petrified Forest National Park (PEFO), long the haunt of archaeologists, geologists, and paleontologists, is more recently the destination of increasing numbers of hikers. Many factors draw energetic foot-travelers to the park, and one of the most substantial and innovative of these is the guided backcountry hike program.
This began rather modestly in November 2015, when a couple of park volunteers (VIPs) were drafted to lead visitors’ weekends along the Off the Beaten Path routes. Those initial treks soon ventured even farther off the beaten paths and more routes were added, but the guided hikes were offered only in November and December the first few years. In 2018, a couple more VIPS were recruited to lead from January through March, and the library of hikes continued to grow.
Today, about two dozen different hikes are offered. Although some routes overlap, each hike is unique. Distributed throughout the public portions of the park, from Bear Spring in the far north painted desert to Third Forest in the south, they traverse the diversity of terrains on display within the park’s borders.
Distances range from a bit more than three miles to eight and a half, and difficulty from easy to challenging. The park’s geologic beauty is reward enough for getting out of the car and away from the pavement, but hikers glean additional benefit from viewing ancient Puebloan rock art and ruin sites, “dying grounds” replete with late Triassic fossil fragments, places, and things that figure prominently in the park’s early history – all in their natural settings.
Who participates in the guided backcountry hikes? Some are travelers who stopped at the park with no particular plans, notice the posters and whimsically decide to spend a few hours afoot. Other travelers have a plan: They see the hikes announced on a website or social media and intentionally add the activity to their itinerary. More than one visitor en route through Arizona was drawn here in preference to other parks because PEFO is the only one they found offering wintertime guided activities.
Another demographic is the inveterate hiker who comes solely for this experience. One man drove from Denver on three consecutive weekends. Alex from San Diego returns repeatedly and seems bent on exploring all the routes.
Residents of surrounding communities are also discovering the pleasures of PEFO hiking. Many who have long lived nearby without setting foot in the park find themselves drawn back over and over after joining a single-led hike. And on return, they frequently bring friends.
The nearly unanimous reaction to the backcountry experience is amazement at what is seen and at being allowed to see it. Many have never hiked off-trail before and would not consider doing so without a guide.
Some reactions:
- “My kids won’t believe I did this.”
- “I would never have found this on my own.”
- “The scenery changes around every bend.”
- “None of this is visible from the highway.”
- “It feels like we’re the first people to see this.”
- “We had no idea this is out here.”
- “I thought all the petrified wood was along the highway.”
- “We didn’t know it is possible to just take off and walk through the park.”
- “Wow!”
Free guided hikes are offered most Fridays and Saturdays from October through November and January through March. Schedules and short descriptions are posted on Friends and PEFO websites and Facebook pages.
For more information, contact Ranger Emily Devereaux at 928-524-6228 x 276.
All photos courtesy of Gary Grube